Finally got something!

[DomMINIque]

Just caught up with this thread now.

Some good progress you making there!

That firing order looks correct by the way. If you have a look at the dizzy from the top right anticlockwise you'd got the order there. 3-4-2-1.

Yea trust me, once an engine comes out..... it takes a while for it to go back inside.....

[Vinay-RS]

There is always something to fix on a Mini, but once everything gets fixed it will be even better to drive. Just slowly fix thing as they break and if it is something major then take time and get it done properly. If it isn't, and the car can still run and drive well, then just enjoy it

[ChristiaanV]

Wow I have been leaving this for a while...
So I found out my master cylinder was pitted to heck and back, and a quick refurbishment (that took over 2 weeks) later I have working brakes. Not great, but I can stop if I need to.
Also I managed to replace all the CV boots (a mammoth task in it's own right) and got all that sealed up nicely.
Today I went for my first roadworthy test and the results are as follow:
-Pedal rubbers
-Rear left brake needs adjusting (actually all of them do, might just somehow get a booster.)
-steam clean engine (did some of that afterward, will have to double check from underneath)
-Oil leak (they can't know where the leak is, hence the steam clean)
-x2 torsion bar rubbers

It's school holidays after next week, so I can spend some time getting all the parts I need fitted then got for my 1 free test in 14 days.
Maybe I'll get through.

[jimmyjamjar]

Hi!
 All the work and effort is worth nothing if the car does not stop properly. The Mini was never renowned for fantastic braking, which needs regular adjusting. So my two cents input  is to get all your brake kit replaced or refurbished, you can buy new slave cylinders from brake places or Midas  quite cheap and if master cylinders are pitted then get a brake place to re-sleeve the cylinder. It's worth the peace of mind to do that. AS others have said once it is going and stopping then youy can just attend to the rest as time and funds permit.

[ChristiaanV]

I just had a brain fart on what I want to do with the heating and cooling of the cabin.
I want to replace the heating element under the dash with a cooling version (i.e. running an AC pump and keep me cool in summer) and first I wanted to do an electric heating element behind it, so I can still warm up in winter.
But then I got thinking that it would draw more than my alternator can reliably supply, so why not just keep using the same water system to heat the cabin, just move the radiator position.

Now I still have the original plastic scoops on the front to channel air into the cabin (driver and passenger), so why not just put the radiator in front/inside of the driver scoop? I can then introduce a 12v hairdryer fan to keep hot air moving when I'm stationary, and a spring loaded dump valve to waste heat when I close the vent inside.

I get to make space for an Air conditioning inside, and keep using the hot engine water to warm up when I need to!

[ChristiaanV]

Update from a wet Cape Town!

Roadworthy: Done!!!
Been driving the last 6 weeks, it's been great (once I found out my petrol gauge was rusted shut and ran out of petrol, then found out I need a new tank with the boot full of rust I poured out of it)
Also I lost a headlamp, so I swapped the working left to right and slowly but surely making plans for a whole electric conversion, the plan for next paycheck.
Right now Im waiting to order a new brake master and exhaust clamp as I would like to not choke to death, or have the pot corrode through and crash to death.
But I have made a shopping list of stuff I can/need to do before I'll be done:

5    hazard lights conversion
5    headlamp conversion
5    new brake master
5    new clutch master
5    new manifold-exhaust clamp
5    rust treatment
4    engine refurbish
4    Gearbox refurbish
4    new  rear suspension
4    new engine mounting rubbers
4    new fuel tank
4    new muffler box
4    seat belt conversion
3    carburetor refurbish
3    firewall soundproofing
3    new rubber seals (window+door)
3    new suspension rubbers
3    seat belts in the back
2    fire extinguisher mount
2    heater conversion
2    new carpet
2    new CV joints (?)
2    new tires (x2, return the borrowed ones)
2    new water pump (?)
2    upholstery refurbish
1    back-seat storage compartment
1    Driver door lock furnishing
1    flat boot conversion (platform over the spare wheel+battery)
1    Jack mounting in the boot/under back seat
1    matching door handles
1    new audio
1    New wheel bearings
1    new window clamps (inside doors)
1    radiator upgrade?


And here's what I've spent money on recently:
-Brakes (roughly 50% of my spending so far)
-wheel balancing + alignment
-pedal rubbers
-engine oil
-fan belt
-petrol filter (under the body under the tank at the back)

-Spark plugs
-Roadworthy
-number plates
-down pipe flex joint
-original steel bonnet (respray, baby blue on my yellow mini. Still have the bonnet at home, maybe it can be fixed.)

I've moved into a hostel, so no paying rent! That extra cash is going to paying my dad for the mini and buying parts as I need them. Whatever I haven't spend goes into savings for more rainy days.

[ChristiaanV]

Evening friends!

So I've been driving around mostly happy recently but knowing I'll have to do some engine overhaul, I'm wondering it would cost to do an electric conversion!
After a lot of youtube hours later seeing what other people have done, I figured I'd at least do a mockup of what I might be able to achieve.

Below I have a subframe diagram that I copy-pasted some screengrabs and google search images for illustration (not reference)
The concept is to match two electric motors in the rear subframe for a single output to a propshaft (Remove exhaust pipe, replace with propshaft) that thrusts power towards the front.

( See link: https://imgur.com/CGz5Pxr )

One of several issues are that I either need to
1) make the propshaft drive the existing drivetrain with a new enclosure (since I'm tossing the engine and gearbox out)
or
2) Mount a new drivetrain and work with converting to the existing drive shafts to the wheels.

But this does leave me with ample space to mount batteries in the front where the engine used to be and my controller boxes in the rear subframe, sending cooling lines along the channel where the exhaust used to live.

With this setup I'm effectively mounting all the petrol weight at the back (motors), and all the engine weight at the front (batteries) so handling should be very similar.

Electronic Vehicle (EV) conversion does mean I'm screwed for long distance trips if I cannot recharge along the way, something that might be fixed by bringing a small electric generator with for long trips? I'll look into a domestic generator (Ryobi Generator Invertor from builders) when I get around to working out my charge rates, so I can drive up along the coast and enjoy a Mini run with the rest.

(Electric motor reference video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie7qvo-aC5k )

[jimmyjamjar]

There are two companies in the UK that do electric conversions for the classic mini. There is also several firms in SA who do conversions and who make kits for DIY.

[Jared Mk3]

Here's a local company that offers conversions :

http://evdynamics.co.za/

I like the idea of an electric Mini, especially if its used for short daily commutes.

[Sean1380]

There was one for sale in NZ, that used an electric motor, on a Mini gearbox