Help me resolve my Mk1's issues... Again!

[alfaquad]

Hi there guys!

So as the plan is to get the car up and running so I can actually drive it often again. 

The car refuses to start. It was running perfectly fine after I installed an electronic ignition kit from Velleman (like this Velleman Ignition Kit)

Then it just stopped working altogether. I went the Velleman route after I could not get it to start with the standard setup. But now the Velleman is also dead, so trying standard again. I've replaced the points, gapped it correctly, wiring is done right and there is spark at the points but not at the spark plugs it seems. The car ran with no issue, started first time whole time. 

Please help me trace the issue!

Also, I found this site online and am wondering if anyone has ever dealt with them and if the prices are good? Classic Mini Shop

I am in need of outer CVs for my car. Also need to see if my clutch master cylinder just needs seals replaced or if I need a new master cylinder. I need to sort out the wiring on my car as it's a real mess. Then new tyres and I'm good to go again!

[alfaquad]

I went and fiddled with the car a bit now... There is spark at the points and the distributor is getting spark no problem. Points gap is set and points are 100%. The condenser is wired in correctly, but there is no spark on the spark plugs. I'm thinking that it might be a question of the rotor or the condenser?

Also, do you guys wire the coil's positive through the ignition switch? Mine is wired straight from power and it gets incredibly hot just standing... Something I only realised now.

[DomMINIque]

Classic mini shop that you've got there is GTS Phil on here has a green GTS and a few others. A very knowledgeable and helpful guy.

As for the rest I not too sure I can help you without catching you and your car on fire.

[abri]

If there's spark at the points it can only really be the rotor, distributor cap, HT leads or plugs themselves, can't it? Keep swapping out parts until you've narrowed it down to the faulty bit. Is there any sign that it wants to fire up or have you got no spark on any cylinder?

[GTSPhil]

Guys

Just a few points, firstly remember the white or black and white wire from the harness needs to go to the positive of the coil.
The wire to the distributer is from the negative on the coil. Further if your coil keeps getting hot with the ignition to the on position, then you more than likely have a earthing issue on either the engine or just the distributer. Mark the distributer's current location on the baseplate and body of the dizzy. Then take either carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spray the inside of the dizzy and use compressed air to blow it out if available. Then check the wire running from the dizzy body to the baseplate and ensure it is tight and making proper contact. Re-assemble and see how it goes. Another test is wait till it is dark and try to start the car, if you see sparks around the dizzy cap then it is cracked and needs replacement. Lastly make sure the earth strap from the body to the engine is clean and correctly attached and the same will go for the negative strap for the battery from the body in the boot. Loosen them and clean them with sand paper and where the cable contacts the body.

The very last point, I have found that the latest spark plugs of the last few years are so bad that if they got flooded once properly with petrol, they more than likely need replacement.

Good luck

[admin]

May be of some interest:
http://www.minimania.com/Troubleshooting_Lucas_Points

[Boyscout]

Just a note on ignition coils. Itbis getting increasingly harderbto get tge correct coils for our Minis. The spares shops sell two coils. One is supposedly for electronic ignition and the other for points. They both have very low primary resistance of less than 1.5 Ohm. The Mini requires a coil with primary resistance between 2.5 and 3 ohm. If you use the wrong coil, you will burn points and if you have the electronic module fitted, you will probably blow that as well.

I found a locally manufactured coil, blueish green in colour that has 2.5ohm resistance which works well with points and electronic module. Surprisingly it has the same part no as the lucas and Huco coils.

I suggest you take a multimeter with when you buy a coil. Both Lucas and Huco was too low. Haven't tried Bosch.

[alfaquad]

Thanks GTSPhil! I am in Zambia for work till the end of the week, so will look at it over the weekend!

Thanks to everyone - I'll investigate!!

[alfaquad]

I am still struggling with no results.

I get spark from the coil to the dizzy centre lead... I get spark at the points, but I don't get any spark to the plugs. New condenser, new points, HT leads are new, plugs are in perfect condition. Spares shops don't have the rotor or cap. Short of that, I don't know what it is. I did the troubelshooter in the Haynes manual and everything seems fine. Coil does get hot still though, I don't see an engine earth strap, but it has never had one. I cleaned the battery earth terminal.

Phil, till when are you open and do you have outer CVs for my car perhaps?

[u09521]

There is a little springy nipple thingy in the middle of the distributor cap which runs on the top of your rotor. Is it there, clean and making contact with the rotor?
I got a rotor and cap from Autozone not long ago. They had to get them from the main warehouse, but it was morning/afternoon service.