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Unleaded Cylinder Head
#1
I have read a few articles on this subject and all roads lead to the following conclusion:

Unless you're contemplating inter-galactic mileage, you don't need a converted head. If you're a-series engine has ingested hoops of leaded fuel over many thousand's of miles, and you only do limited casual mileages, you are likely to get away without the need of a conversion or additive. My personal recommendation and experience has proven that using an endorsed additive is the best way to go.

On race cars or where larger than sensibly usable valves can be fitted where exhaust seat inserts can be used and unleaded fuel only is usable - don't bother about inserts, just use a reputable additive.

Source:
Minimania

The Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles Valve Recession Working Group have found that valve seat erosion "was only found after constant high speed laboratory tests" and that "erosion was virtually not found when vehicles are used for everyday normal operation".

Source:
Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles
Gregory
It is what you think you know already that prevents you from learning.
I am here to learn. Teach me.
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#2
Locally available LRP, modified head with 30mm exhaust valves, modified guide bosses (practically removed) and daily 140km round trip, meant the head had to be reconditioned after 6 months use.

Castrol Valvemaster Plus and normal unleaded fuel gave me another 6 years of use without a single hitch !!
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#3
Thanks for the info Sean1380! I am sure the Castrol Valvemaster Plus is cheaper than a modified head.
Gregory
It is what you think you know already that prevents you from learning.
I am here to learn. Teach me.
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#4
depending on where you can get it, some Engen garages carry it, behind the counter, its between R7 and R10 per shot, which treats 20 litres so it adds around R0.50 per litre to your petrol cost.

I managed to source s Mini Spares MES6 unleaded head from the UK, which i slapped onto my 1380 now.
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#5
When I overhauled my Mini engine, the head work cost me R2400. This included a resurface, new valve guides, regrind valves assemble etc. R600 of this was for the machining and fitment of hardened exhaust valve seats. so you are looking at about 50 - 60 tanks of fuel to break even. Our Mini does about a tank/month so 5 years to break even.

So yes the fuel additive is the most cost effective way to ensure your Mini does not eat its valve seats. If the head needs to be done anyway, it makes sense to have the seats done at the same time.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Boyscout's post:
  • gweir
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#6
Who did your headwork Boyscout?
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#7
(09-19-2016, 12:15 PM)DomMINIque Wrote: Who did your headwork Boyscout?

Allan Y Brink engineering. http://allanybrink.yellowpages.co.za/
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