I had no idea myself about where to look for vehicle ID before finding this forum. Having read through a few posts (ie using a "GTS" search command) I noticed the reference to the body number tag being on the rear passenger side of the parcel shelf. Fortunately mine is present and unmolested, and agrees with the riveted tag on the front. The format is XAD2S - 05xxxx.
Generally speaking, in a production situation the newly welded shell, referred to a "body in white" needs an ID so that its build sheet can be followed for later parts supply to and fitment on the assembly line, as well as the other processes involved to the body unit, for example to spot weld the fender extension lips to later mount the GTS flares on. This is the "Body Number" which generally is stamped on an early part to form the shell proper, in this case the rear parcel shelf upper surface. The plate on my car has wavy edges and is relief stamped from the rear as mentioned above. It contains the body number and paint code, in my case "Opal White". The other place the paint code is referenced is in production crayon marker on the back seat vertical panel, written in an "upwards" direction as that panel was first hung from the right hand edge, with the left hand edge towards the ground the writing was initially level. Perhaps this panel being painted in full provided a reference to ensure the other panels matched this colour and minimising production errors.
The build sheet would also reference another number, the car number which is the ID of the proposed vehicle allocated to a dealer order. The numerical difference between the two numbers will be similar from car to car, but vary as bodies in white are sent back for rectification or replacement before the car number is assigned. Once the car number is assigned, the production parts assigned to that vehicle order are sent to the various points on the assembly line for fitment. Thus the completed vehicle once all "OK" checks have been passed has this number and is sent to the dealer. This is the number used for registration. In this case, the vehicle predates the VIN system and the car number has a different number of digits, with a little less information in total, mainly car type and sequential manufacturing number following. The car number may be referred to as the chassis number. The VIN system replaced the car number, with a more universal denotation of manufacturer, type, year and ID.
The car number may have a format as follows (I am guessing):
XA - Model ie Mini
D - Engine ie 1275, GT etc
2S - Body ie Two Door Sedan
And so on. In this case the Body Number and Car Number have the same prefix, perhaps to avoid confusion during the build.
In Australia, all vehicle types started with a car number "501" in an effort to convince the buying public that they were not purchasing an untested vehicle. Body numbers began at "001" hence we look for a difference of about 500 between the two, and to find out what build number your car was of that type, just subtract 500. Mostly this was in the engine bay area, position changing at times during different manufacturing eras.
The UK a little different, a riveted plate in the engine bay (nicely to the front where it would disappear during accident or rust repair) supplemented by a "FE" or front end number spot welded to the front floorpan. Similarly, FE numbers when referenced to other vehicles help identify time of manufacture, but without reference to vehicle type.
In the UK, the Cooper and Cooper S shared the same prefix (Austin differed to Morris). Factory records are needed to confirm which (but may not be conclusive in all cases as engine numbers for both at times had a similar prefix).
In Australia, Cooper had a different prefix to Cooper S.
GT was similar format to Cooper S (But not the same).
When I go to register the vehicle, I need to have the car number stamped or welded somewhere for roadworthy inspection. A riveted plate will not be accepted, similarly if the engine number was riveted on it would be removed and the number stamped to the block. If no ID is stamped to the shell I will be given (ie stamped in) a generic police reference number (yeuch).
(In period, engines which arrived complete from the UK had their plates chiseled off and hung on the brake line at the master cylinder with a piece of string (most were lost). Engines that were made up from CKD kits didn't have the hammer drive rivet holes.)
Similarly, I need to be absolutely sure of year of manufacture, it is far too hard to change at a later date. I am happy to pass on my car details to a forum registrar who collects vehicle details for this purpose.
Here is a low-res photo of the body tag:
Generally speaking, in a production situation the newly welded shell, referred to a "body in white" needs an ID so that its build sheet can be followed for later parts supply to and fitment on the assembly line, as well as the other processes involved to the body unit, for example to spot weld the fender extension lips to later mount the GTS flares on. This is the "Body Number" which generally is stamped on an early part to form the shell proper, in this case the rear parcel shelf upper surface. The plate on my car has wavy edges and is relief stamped from the rear as mentioned above. It contains the body number and paint code, in my case "Opal White". The other place the paint code is referenced is in production crayon marker on the back seat vertical panel, written in an "upwards" direction as that panel was first hung from the right hand edge, with the left hand edge towards the ground the writing was initially level. Perhaps this panel being painted in full provided a reference to ensure the other panels matched this colour and minimising production errors.
The build sheet would also reference another number, the car number which is the ID of the proposed vehicle allocated to a dealer order. The numerical difference between the two numbers will be similar from car to car, but vary as bodies in white are sent back for rectification or replacement before the car number is assigned. Once the car number is assigned, the production parts assigned to that vehicle order are sent to the various points on the assembly line for fitment. Thus the completed vehicle once all "OK" checks have been passed has this number and is sent to the dealer. This is the number used for registration. In this case, the vehicle predates the VIN system and the car number has a different number of digits, with a little less information in total, mainly car type and sequential manufacturing number following. The car number may be referred to as the chassis number. The VIN system replaced the car number, with a more universal denotation of manufacturer, type, year and ID.
The car number may have a format as follows (I am guessing):
XA - Model ie Mini
D - Engine ie 1275, GT etc
2S - Body ie Two Door Sedan
And so on. In this case the Body Number and Car Number have the same prefix, perhaps to avoid confusion during the build.
In Australia, all vehicle types started with a car number "501" in an effort to convince the buying public that they were not purchasing an untested vehicle. Body numbers began at "001" hence we look for a difference of about 500 between the two, and to find out what build number your car was of that type, just subtract 500. Mostly this was in the engine bay area, position changing at times during different manufacturing eras.
The UK a little different, a riveted plate in the engine bay (nicely to the front where it would disappear during accident or rust repair) supplemented by a "FE" or front end number spot welded to the front floorpan. Similarly, FE numbers when referenced to other vehicles help identify time of manufacture, but without reference to vehicle type.
In the UK, the Cooper and Cooper S shared the same prefix (Austin differed to Morris). Factory records are needed to confirm which (but may not be conclusive in all cases as engine numbers for both at times had a similar prefix).
In Australia, Cooper had a different prefix to Cooper S.
GT was similar format to Cooper S (But not the same).
When I go to register the vehicle, I need to have the car number stamped or welded somewhere for roadworthy inspection. A riveted plate will not be accepted, similarly if the engine number was riveted on it would be removed and the number stamped to the block. If no ID is stamped to the shell I will be given (ie stamped in) a generic police reference number (yeuch).
(In period, engines which arrived complete from the UK had their plates chiseled off and hung on the brake line at the master cylinder with a piece of string (most were lost). Engines that were made up from CKD kits didn't have the hammer drive rivet holes.)
Similarly, I need to be absolutely sure of year of manufacture, it is far too hard to change at a later date. I am happy to pass on my car details to a forum registrar who collects vehicle details for this purpose.
Here is a low-res photo of the body tag:
![[-]](https://samini.co.za/images/collapse.png)