<![CDATA[SA Classic Mini Forum - Technical Downloads]]> https://samini.co.za/ Fri, 15 May 2026 22:55:56 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Wheel Rims and Tyre Variations]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=567 Wed, 19 Oct 2016 15:29:54 +0000 askalbert]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=567
For those who like to play with wheel and tyre combinations the following links may be useful.

A wheel rim and tyre comparison chart - first is the factory fitment, second is alternate fitment and two charts follow with comparitive figres, rim size range for tyres chosen and similar data. Note that if you enter the comparison page from another on the site and the vehicle has been chosen the factory data has been set.
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

List of factory fitments arranged by PCD - useful if you want to try a wheel rim from another manufacturer.
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/hold...rence.html

PCD list arranged by manufacturer in different formats.
http://www.boostcruising.com/advice/3314...Guide.html
http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins...ontent.561

Manufacturer list leading to wheel data.
http://www.wheel-size.com/size/
http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html

Pictures of available factory wheels
http://www.originalwheels.com/

Legal requirements in different states of Australia.
http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/forum...new-thread

I probably find the "rims n tyres" link and the "wheel size com" links the most useful, but all have some merit depending on the approach taken.]]>
For those who like to play with wheel and tyre combinations the following links may be useful.

A wheel rim and tyre comparison chart - first is the factory fitment, second is alternate fitment and two charts follow with comparitive figres, rim size range for tyres chosen and similar data. Note that if you enter the comparison page from another on the site and the vehicle has been chosen the factory data has been set.
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

List of factory fitments arranged by PCD - useful if you want to try a wheel rim from another manufacturer.
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/hold...rence.html

PCD list arranged by manufacturer in different formats.
http://www.boostcruising.com/advice/3314...Guide.html
http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins...ontent.561

Manufacturer list leading to wheel data.
http://www.wheel-size.com/size/
http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html

Pictures of available factory wheels
http://www.originalwheels.com/

Legal requirements in different states of Australia.
http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/forum...new-thread

I probably find the "rims n tyres" link and the "wheel size com" links the most useful, but all have some merit depending on the approach taken.]]> <![CDATA[Unleaded Cylinder Head]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=535 Wed, 14 Sep 2016 19:53:20 +0000 gweir]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=535
Unless you're contemplating inter-galactic mileage, you don't need a converted head. If you're a-series engine has ingested hoops of leaded fuel over many thousand's of miles, and you only do limited casual mileages, you are likely to get away without the need of a conversion or additive. My personal recommendation and experience has proven that using an endorsed additive is the best way to go.

On race cars or where larger than sensibly usable valves can be fitted where exhaust seat inserts can be used and unleaded fuel only is usable - don't bother about inserts, just use a reputable additive.

Source:
Minimania

The Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles Valve Recession Working Group have found that valve seat erosion "was only found after constant high speed laboratory tests" and that "erosion was virtually not found when vehicles are used for everyday normal operation".

Source:
Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles]]>
Unless you're contemplating inter-galactic mileage, you don't need a converted head. If you're a-series engine has ingested hoops of leaded fuel over many thousand's of miles, and you only do limited casual mileages, you are likely to get away without the need of a conversion or additive. My personal recommendation and experience has proven that using an endorsed additive is the best way to go.

On race cars or where larger than sensibly usable valves can be fitted where exhaust seat inserts can be used and unleaded fuel only is usable - don't bother about inserts, just use a reputable additive.

Source:
Minimania

The Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles Valve Recession Working Group have found that valve seat erosion "was only found after constant high speed laboratory tests" and that "erosion was virtually not found when vehicles are used for everyday normal operation".

Source:
Partnership for Clean Fuels and Vehicles]]> <![CDATA[Top 10 Mini Problems]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=279 Thu, 04 Feb 2016 23:39:10 +0000 JAYO]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=279

I stumbled across this article from minimag.co.uk on the internet covering common issues on the Mini.

Quite informative and a good read. Sure it will help a newbie "Me-ken-niks", like myself.

.pdf   commonproblems.pdf (Size: 375.14 KB / Downloads: 871) ]]>

I stumbled across this article from minimag.co.uk on the internet covering common issues on the Mini.

Quite informative and a good read. Sure it will help a newbie "Me-ken-niks", like myself.

.pdf   commonproblems.pdf (Size: 375.14 KB / Downloads: 871) ]]> <![CDATA[Mini Specs]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=250 Sun, 10 Jan 2016 13:52:18 +0000 Vinay-RS]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=250
.pdf   Cooper S.pdf (Size: 539.45 KB / Downloads: 540)

.pdf   1275-gt-2.pdf (Size: 1.75 MB / Downloads: 544) ]]>
.pdf   Cooper S.pdf (Size: 539.45 KB / Downloads: 540)

.pdf   1275-gt-2.pdf (Size: 1.75 MB / Downloads: 544) ]]> <![CDATA[Cam chart]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=245 Tue, 05 Jan 2016 14:20:26 +0000 u09521]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=245
.pdf   camshafts.pdf (Size: 141.35 KB / Downloads: 574) ]]>
.pdf   camshafts.pdf (Size: 141.35 KB / Downloads: 574) ]]> <![CDATA[Mini Mania - Wiring Diagrams]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=157 Tue, 06 Oct 2015 12:05:55 +0000 admin]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=157 Some information from the old forum (original poster: 2yellow2miss):


Quote:http://www.minimania.com/classic-mini-co...62--wiring
]]> Some information from the old forum (original poster: 2yellow2miss):


Quote:http://www.minimania.com/classic-mini-co...62--wiring
]]> <![CDATA[Engine number decoder]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=156 Tue, 06 Oct 2015 12:02:38 +0000 admin]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=156 Some information from the old forum (original poster: MINIMAL):


Quote:Whilst mucking around I found the next link to clarify classic Mini engines types by the engine No. however it only works if it is a engine made in the UK or so it seems as my local engine No does not work but the 3 A+ engines I have do.

http://www.guess-works.com/Tech/engine.htm

U simply fill in the data and U know what engine it is, what year it was made and even what the original gearbox and final drive was.
]]> Some information from the old forum (original poster: MINIMAL):


Quote:Whilst mucking around I found the next link to clarify classic Mini engines types by the engine No. however it only works if it is a engine made in the UK or so it seems as my local engine No does not work but the 3 A+ engines I have do.

http://www.guess-works.com/Tech/engine.htm

U simply fill in the data and U know what engine it is, what year it was made and even what the original gearbox and final drive was.
]]> <![CDATA[SU Needle Comparison Site]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=155 Tue, 06 Oct 2015 11:59:59 +0000 admin]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=155

Quote:Handy site for comparing different SU needles, and plotting them on a chart.

What is nice, is that you can see the size of the needle when dividing it into 16 different stages, thus enabling you to polish your needle to a different needle profile

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
]]>

Quote:Handy site for comparing different SU needles, and plotting them on a chart.

What is nice, is that you can see the size of the needle when dividing it into 16 different stages, thus enabling you to polish your needle to a different needle profile

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/
]]> <![CDATA[SA Mini Specs]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=93 Wed, 09 Sep 2015 01:59:56 +0000 Miniac]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=93 (Originally found on the old forum www.kznmini.europefreeforum.com)
 
Mini 1000s
[Image: Mini1000S_zpsbb6efc54.jpg]
 
Clubman 1100
[Image: Clubman1100_zps31b3c478.jpg]
 
Clubman 1275GT
[Image: Clubman1275GT_zpse0236aac.jpg]
 
Mini D/L
[Image: MiniD_L_zps72977f62.jpg]
 
Mini 1275 GTS
[Image: 1275_GTS_Autodata_zps6f324b52.jpg]
 
Mini Sunshine, Moonlight & Van Den Plas
[Image: MiniSunshineMoonlightVanDenPlas_zps632e30e8.jpg]
 
Mini 1275E
[Image: 1275E_Autodata_zpseba97981.jpg]]]> (Originally found on the old forum www.kznmini.europefreeforum.com)
 
Mini 1000s
[Image: Mini1000S_zpsbb6efc54.jpg]
 
Clubman 1100
[Image: Clubman1100_zps31b3c478.jpg]
 
Clubman 1275GT
[Image: Clubman1275GT_zpse0236aac.jpg]
 
Mini D/L
[Image: MiniD_L_zps72977f62.jpg]
 
Mini 1275 GTS
[Image: 1275_GTS_Autodata_zps6f324b52.jpg]
 
Mini Sunshine, Moonlight & Van Den Plas
[Image: MiniSunshineMoonlightVanDenPlas_zps632e30e8.jpg]
 
Mini 1275E
[Image: 1275E_Autodata_zpseba97981.jpg]]]> <![CDATA[Tuning SU carburettors]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=58 Wed, 02 Sep 2015 04:29:08 +0000 Boyscout]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=58
Here are a few docs that I have collected from various websites. Some good info on SU carbs.


.pdf   Tech_Information_SU_carby_needles.pdf (Size: 346.74 KB / Downloads: 910)

.pdf   Tuning_SU_Carburetors.pdf (Size: 1.64 MB / Downloads: 675) ]]>
Here are a few docs that I have collected from various websites. Some good info on SU carbs.


.pdf   Tech_Information_SU_carby_needles.pdf (Size: 346.74 KB / Downloads: 910)

.pdf   Tuning_SU_Carburetors.pdf (Size: 1.64 MB / Downloads: 675) ]]> <![CDATA[Engine run in procedure]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=49 Mon, 31 Aug 2015 09:05:07 +0000 Miniac]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=49 Successful Engine Run-in .
Installing a new rebuilt engine in your car
will give it a major “shot in the arm” in any
number of ways. In order to get the most of
this change we suggest that you take the
time while the engine bay is empty to do a
thorough cleaning of the area.
We suggest you carefully examine such
items as motor mounts; fuel, water and
clutch hoses and replace them if they are
cracked or stressed. This is also a good
time to have the radiator checked by
reputable shop and have any necessary
repairs done. Be sure to check the condition
of your electrics, looking for corroded
connectors and frayed and /or broken wires
(including battery and ground cables) since
a bad ground or corroded connection can
take away all the performance you are
buying!
Also carefully examine your fuel and
hydraulic lines and repair or replace them
now, while you have the room to do it
comfortably.
This is also the time to carefully check the
carburetor(s) and rebuild if required. Look
closely for play around the throttle shafts,
since air can leak past a worn shaft and
give you fits at tune-up time. Check and
replace points, cap and rotor as needed
and look for excess play in the distributor.
Remember, some of our cars are 40 years
old or better, so make the extra effort to
give that new engine a good home!
Run-in Procedures
Read these procedures thoroughly before
starting your engine. Have a good shop
manual nearby.
Your Mini Mania rebuilt engine comes to
you in a DRY condition. It has been put
together with quality assembly lubricants in
all the areas of high stress and extreme
pressure, such as the cam and lifter
interface, the crankshaft main and rod
bearings and the valve train. It has not
been pre-run or dynoed, so you will need
to “prime” the oil pump while filling the
sump for the first time.
To do this, remove the ”banjo” bolt at the
upper rear of the engine and fill the
passage leading to the oil pump with motor
oil. Replace the bolt.   Fill the oil filter with
oil and replace. Continue to pour the rest
of the required amount of oil through the
oil cap. Use a high-quality oil such as
Valvoline, Castrol or Pennzoil. Never use
"bargain" oils in your engine at any time!!!
The money you "save" will be spent any
times over in maintainance costs at a later
date. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT use
synthetic lubricants of any kind in this
engine at any time! This is particularly
important for Mini owners who have to
lubricate both the engine and the
transmission with the same oil!
Remove the spark plugs and turn over the
engine with the starter until the oil
pressure gauge shows full pressure.
Be sure to correctly fill the cooling system
with the correct mix of coolant (anti-freeze)
and water according to the manufacturers
recommendations (also found elsewhere in
this database) or use a water pump
lubricant in the water.
Re-install the plugs and prepare to start the
engine. The carburetor should have the jet
tubes set 2 turns down from flush with the
bridge and the needle(s) centered in the
bore(s).
Start the engine and hold the engine speed
at 2000-3000 RPM for at least 20 minutes.
This ensures plenty of oil to the camshaft
bearings. Speeds slower than 2000 RPM
may starve a cam of oil. You may want to
do this during the day to avoid
disagreements with your neighbors.
After this initial run-in, retorque the
cylinder head, HOT, to 50 ft/lbs and
readjust the valves according to your shop
manual.
Do not exceed 3000 rpm for any prolonged
period for the first 500 miles, at which
time, change the oil and readjust the
valves. After this you may gradually increase
RPM limits over the next 1000 miles or so.]]> Successful Engine Run-in .
Installing a new rebuilt engine in your car
will give it a major “shot in the arm” in any
number of ways. In order to get the most of
this change we suggest that you take the
time while the engine bay is empty to do a
thorough cleaning of the area.
We suggest you carefully examine such
items as motor mounts; fuel, water and
clutch hoses and replace them if they are
cracked or stressed. This is also a good
time to have the radiator checked by
reputable shop and have any necessary
repairs done. Be sure to check the condition
of your electrics, looking for corroded
connectors and frayed and /or broken wires
(including battery and ground cables) since
a bad ground or corroded connection can
take away all the performance you are
buying!
Also carefully examine your fuel and
hydraulic lines and repair or replace them
now, while you have the room to do it
comfortably.
This is also the time to carefully check the
carburetor(s) and rebuild if required. Look
closely for play around the throttle shafts,
since air can leak past a worn shaft and
give you fits at tune-up time. Check and
replace points, cap and rotor as needed
and look for excess play in the distributor.
Remember, some of our cars are 40 years
old or better, so make the extra effort to
give that new engine a good home!
Run-in Procedures
Read these procedures thoroughly before
starting your engine. Have a good shop
manual nearby.
Your Mini Mania rebuilt engine comes to
you in a DRY condition. It has been put
together with quality assembly lubricants in
all the areas of high stress and extreme
pressure, such as the cam and lifter
interface, the crankshaft main and rod
bearings and the valve train. It has not
been pre-run or dynoed, so you will need
to “prime” the oil pump while filling the
sump for the first time.
To do this, remove the ”banjo” bolt at the
upper rear of the engine and fill the
passage leading to the oil pump with motor
oil. Replace the bolt.   Fill the oil filter with
oil and replace. Continue to pour the rest
of the required amount of oil through the
oil cap. Use a high-quality oil such as
Valvoline, Castrol or Pennzoil. Never use
"bargain" oils in your engine at any time!!!
The money you "save" will be spent any
times over in maintainance costs at a later
date. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT use
synthetic lubricants of any kind in this
engine at any time! This is particularly
important for Mini owners who have to
lubricate both the engine and the
transmission with the same oil!
Remove the spark plugs and turn over the
engine with the starter until the oil
pressure gauge shows full pressure.
Be sure to correctly fill the cooling system
with the correct mix of coolant (anti-freeze)
and water according to the manufacturers
recommendations (also found elsewhere in
this database) or use a water pump
lubricant in the water.
Re-install the plugs and prepare to start the
engine. The carburetor should have the jet
tubes set 2 turns down from flush with the
bridge and the needle(s) centered in the
bore(s).
Start the engine and hold the engine speed
at 2000-3000 RPM for at least 20 minutes.
This ensures plenty of oil to the camshaft
bearings. Speeds slower than 2000 RPM
may starve a cam of oil. You may want to
do this during the day to avoid
disagreements with your neighbors.
After this initial run-in, retorque the
cylinder head, HOT, to 50 ft/lbs and
readjust the valves according to your shop
manual.
Do not exceed 3000 rpm for any prolonged
period for the first 500 miles, at which
time, change the oil and readjust the
valves. After this you may gradually increase
RPM limits over the next 1000 miles or so.]]> <![CDATA[Bullnose Dimensions]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=28 Thu, 27 Aug 2015 14:07:03 +0000 DomMINIque]]> https://samini.co.za/showthread.php?tid=28 [Image: dimensions_zpsv7dmlsug.jpg]]]> [Image: dimensions_zpsv7dmlsug.jpg]]]>