I made the mistake of posting a lot of the updates on this car in the introduction section. I hope you don't mind me re-posting it here where it actually belongs. 
 
So the name of the car "V8" comes from an Afrikaans joke about repeated removal of an engine ("wee® uit"), which sums up my first year of ownership of this car. When I bought it in August 2014 it was running poorly due to a badly fitting exhaust manifold fouling the inlet and preventing it from sealing on the gasket. Once I got that sorted out I discovered that it smoked and used A LOT of oil as soon as you started going over about 45mph. So, I pulled the engine out to clean up the engine and bay slightly at the same time as having the head cleaned up and new stem seals fitted. Put the lot back together....smoke! I then realized the problems were more serious and took it out again for a proper strip down and check. The bores were at +0.020" and it had +0.020" BMC pistons fitted, which was interesting because I have a reliable history that the engine had never been opened apart from the head being skimmed before in 1979. 

Sourcing rings for the old 4 ring BMC pistons was a struggle which I overcame with the assistance of a local contact who can sniff out old stock. However, they sets of rings he could get were only 3 ring sets. I bought two sets so I could make up a 4 ring set of the correct size and thickness. Long story short, put the motor together and.....smoke!
 
This brings me up to the start of this thread....the engine "wee uit" (3rd time lucky), and options reconsidered: 
Here is the car as I bought it - 1967 Morris Cooper S 1275

 
Work done to the motor: 
Crank cut +0.010"on mains
Crank re-nitrided (after 10thou the hardest part of the case hardening is off)
Crank straightened and crack tested (it warped during plasma nitriding, apparently not completely unusual)
Crank, flywheel/clutch assembly and crank pulley balanced
Rods balanced
Block line bored
Block sleeved to std (after a long fruitless search for +0.020 rings for the original BMC pistons that were in there)
NOS BMC four ring pistons std
ACL trimetal main & big end bearings
Cam bearings
Core plugs
Full gasket set
BK450 head gasket
Minispares EVO AEG410 oil pump
 
The gearbox received some minor attention as well:
New Minispares laygear + bearings
New 3rd motion bearing
Center oil pickup
 
This little lot has added up to an eye-watering amount but we're assembling it tomorrow!! 
 
I plan to find an unmolested GTS head and do some porting, gasflow and nice seats for this motor. It is unfortunate that I had to sleeve it back, but the reasons for it is a long story. Basically, the original four ring BMC +0.020 pistons that the motor had could be re-used, but none of the usual suspects sell rings for it. I went on a wild goose chase to find rings which I eventually did but at 110GBP I decided to rather look for a set of NOS +20thou pistons with rings. I found these nice Hepolite nogal, on Ebay in Canada, got them shipped over only to find they are std BMC pistons in a +20 Hepolite box   . If I'd known this, I would have just gone onto Minispares and bought a new set of whatever modern stuff they recommend at +20. So despite me wanting to make this one a bit more sporty, I'm actually de-tuning it unfortunately. I'll still do the head though. Now to find an engineer who has heard of David Vizard
 
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Update on the progress. The motor has been assembled, everything apart from the head. I discovered on Thursday that there is severe wear in the valve guides and on some valve stems. All this after the head was supposedly checked out by a reputable local engineering company way back when I first pulled it out. I would not have known this if I hadn't stripped the head myself and had a good mechanic to check and advise. Either way, another delay and more money to throw at it. I have also chatted to some knowledgeable people about performance in the mean time. Some bits that are on order and plans include:

New set of inlet and exhaust valves
New manganese bronze valve guides
Three angle valve seats to be cut
New set of high lift rockers
Maniflow standard bore LCB

I'm now running out of things to replace on this motor, so hopefully after this round it will all be done...but I've said that before several times. 

I also discovered that the spare GTS head I bought off Gumtree from a local racer a few years ago is basically scrap. I bought this before I knew much about minis. The plan was to fit it on my 1275E at the time. The spare head had been massively ported, skimmed and has too much play in the valve guides. The seats have also been badly cut and the valves are badly worn. I was advised that it is not worth spending money to try and get it right. So I guess I was ripped off. Anyone looking for a boat anchor, speak to me!

I chatted to Stuart after an interesting discussion on the whatsapp chatroom. My idea was to get the head properly gasflowed, ported and have the seats nicely done. He suggested that for a road engine like mine it would be wiser to spend my money on the rockers and LCB. This was before I knew the state of the head on my motor. Since I'm now having to get a new set of valves and guides and since the seats need to be cut, Dennis asked Mike (Engineer who works a few shops up the road) if he could cut three angle seats seats. So that is the plan at the moment. This is the first engine build I'm involved in and I hope to get a modest performance improvement and reliability. I'm going to stick with the standard AEG510 cam for now. It was apparently recommended for rallying by Special Tuning back in the day, according to some documents I found online, so it can't be too bad. I'm hoping the high lift rockers will do some of the work a sportier cam normally does. That way I keep it tame enough for traffic as well. I'll see how it goes.
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Time for a small update.
 
 
 
Since last time the car has been on the road for about 230 miles and ticking! I am very happy to report that it is finally smoke free and performs very well. The running in process is under way. The head will be retorqued, valve clearances reset and an oil change done at about 500 miles. 
 
 
 
I mentioned before that with this one I'm deviating slightly from the factory spec approach that I normally have by adding some performance upgrades. Firstly the Minispares 1.5 ratio forged rockers. They look a lot like the original S rockers, but apparently give around 20% more lift, meaning the valve is at any point in its duration further open by about 20%. In theory this helps more mixture to flow into the cylinder, aided by the 3 angle valve seats that I had cut. Pic of the rockers below.



I also fitted a standard bore Maniflow LCB. This LCB is still sold under the part number that the old Special Tuning manuals mention and is apparently basically the same as the original Special Tuning/Downton one fitted in the '60s. See more about it here http://www.maniflow.co.uk/index.php?view...oduct=1122
 


After having removed and installed the motor quite a few times since I got in it August 2014, I seem to be getting the handle on it, doing it by myself with a borrowed engine hoist in a small garage. Here is the end result in place. Sorry for the poor picture quality. My garage is also quite dark.
 

 
On its wheels and rolled out of the garage for the first time with its fully rebuilt motor
 


Then the fun starts....running in! The first pic was taken on its first run after I started it. I took it up a nearby hilly road to put some load on it to aid the rings in bedding in. The carbs were still set for the previous rocker and head setup so it quickly got quite warm because it was running lean. This was adjusted next to the road and it was fine after that. In keeping with the modest power upgrades, I added a bullet racing mirror and redid the Cooper stripes on the bonnet.
 

 
The car has been running well and I've enjoyed getting the feel of the redone motor. I haven't run it hard but I also haven't been babying it. It responds very well when you put your foot down and the sound it makes is addictive! The idling is slightly lumpy with the high lift rockers, which I quite like. Credit to Dennis Nathan for building the motor and letting me watch over his shoulder and help. 
 
 
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This brings me up to July 2016. The car has now got just over 1000 miles on the clock after the rebuild and it is running beautifully!!

This has allowed me to start focusing on other areas that need improvement/restoration. 
The car's speedometer has had issues since I found the correct one for it. A spare one I had was recently sent to an instrument repair place in England for repair and recalibration. I'm expecting it in the mail any day now and look forward to being able to see how fast I'm really going   

I've also brought in a roll of carpet from Coverdale in the UK which had sent me samples that I matched to a piece of original carpet out of this car. Still hunting for some brown felt to use under the carpets. Luckily I have some experience with this, having made the set for my other mini from scratch from the same carpet as well. 

Updates to follow soonish, I hope! 

Hi there

I need to estimate the age of some tyres. Other than checking the production date on the tyre wall of the 175/50x13" tyres 2nd from the right in the back row, the tread pattern may give a clue to the age. When did Yokohama stop making this tyre tread? I got these off someone in the Cape (with Wian's help).

Anyone selling 175/50x13" second hand Yokohamas? A friend is looking for a set for his Mk1 Escort.

Thanks,
Leon

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Hi Guys...like the thread subject states....I have been having some start up issues.

Car specs (standard 1100 big bore)

Refurbished HS4 carb fitted onto the car which was changed to an overhauled 40mm side draft in a hope that the carb was the issue.
New Electronic Ignition
New set of spark plugs, re-gapped as per Haynes Manual
New Dizzy Cap and Leads
New Coil.
car is timed correctly as per Haynes Manual.

What happens.....

From cold with the choke pulled out fully, the car starts on the turn of the key, once it is warmed up and I push the choke in the car idles fine and revs up fine.

once I switch off the ignition, and try to start the car again, it refuses to start (choke in or out). Swings as if there is no spark and not even a hint of any combustion taking place. On inspect I find that if I pull out the lead from the coil and hold it to ground while turning the engine over, there is a bright spark bring supplied by the coil, same happens with the leads to the spark plugs, even tried by removing the spark plugs and connecting the leads ....fire is present.

If I allow the car to rest for about 30Min I find that the car starts perfect.

My first thought was that the chambers are flooded and that could be due to the carb dumping fuel......so I changed to a side draft and still the same issue. Car refuses to start when hot. Note ( coil is still cool to warm) and supplied sufficient spark.

Could this be a timing issue?

Saturday's races heat  1 and 2

I have not been updating my build on the Vandenplas, but I'm hoping to get around to it over the weekend......

Here is my second project that has been on the go, side by side with the Vandenplas ....

1968 Panel van that will get and Toyota 1.6 20V lump fitted "for road use". I would have liked to have restored the Van but when I got it, it didn't have much of the original parts, no engine, the rear panels cut for windows and the It has also been scraped ....which means it will have to be registered as a rebuild.....

While the Vandenplas is taking up most of my time,  trying to finish it off for Cars In The Park on the 31 July.....the Panel Van is on hold. 

Engine....Thus far the engine and box has been dry bolted and placed in the Van engine bay.....with a few pieces of steel welded together to hold it in place while the original frame was chopped. Sum was cut to accommodate the right control arm fitment.

Body wise.... I might had the remove the pressed grill in order to fit a proper exhaust manifold on and a sufficient size radiator. Going with a set of Sports pack arches and 13" racing Hart bobets with 175/50/13. I haven't decided on weather or not to change the colour of the Van.....but I can guarantee you it wont be a plain and simple looking paint work......considering I have done a Pearl paint job on the Vandenplas.....Id like to go with a Candy finish on the Van. 

Suspension and Brakes...I have a set of Metro 4 Port callipers, hubs and discs that will be used on the van, with GTS spacer drums at the back.....and unlike the Vandenplas I'm keeping the standard PCD on the drive flanges. Standard Mini Rear frame with Hilo kit, rear camber adjusters, standard shocks and anti roll bar. Front will be a modified metro or mini sub frame with geometry kit and stock shocks. But time will tell how it turns out.

Interior ...Full roll cage with 2 bucket seats and the Audi dash that I was going to use on the Vandenplas, rear floor will be laid with some good quality wood.

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Howzit guys,

anyone know where I can get a set of leather bonnet straps like in the pic below.

   

My idea with this thread is to keep track of and show you guys a little project I've been wanting to do for a few years. I quite like subtle performance upgrades using parts that were around when the cars were built. This particular one was assembled at Blackheath somewhere in the second half of 1962. It still has its original interior, which was my main reason for buying it. I use it as may daily driver and so far it's been going very well. It as 35k miles on the clock, but the speedo cable has been replaced so there's no way to say for sure how fresh the motor is. The gearbox is not as good as some later 850s I've owned, but that could also be a result of slightly older technology. I have some reading up to do.

So my idea with the performance conversion is essentially to fit a 12G202 cylinder head as was used on the standard SA 998 motors as well as the 997 Cooper and a couple of other BMC small bore A series models. Together with this head I'm planning to fit a 3-1 Cooper exhaust manifold and a set of twin H1 SU carbs on (what I think is) a Sprite manifold. This thread will be somewhat technical because I'm going to go through all the calculations that goes into getting the compression ratio that's desired. We often see people put together engines without much regard for measurements and end up with extremely high compression which then has to be compensated for by having special gaskets made etc. I'm going to do the maths and take the measurements to do it right and I'd welcome input from more knowledgeable people on here when I'm making mistakes...I assume I will, because this will be my first attempt at this type of modification.

So far I've collected a decent looking head which I've measured and appears to be standard, complete with valves, the right exhaust manifold, the small bore "performance" head gasket that Minispares sells, and the set of H1 carbs on a manifold. I've done most of the research into what measurements to take. The next steps are, doing the measurements on my engine and head to make sure I get the correct amount skimmed off the head. Also, I need to strip the set of carbs to have a proper look at what's needed and order a rebuild kit from Burlen Fuel Systems and do a rebuild. At the moment I'm trying to figure out what needles to try in this setup and have asked for some advice. This needs to be done before I can place the order.

To start with, here is the car in question 




So, to work out whether this plan will work there are a number of measurements to do and keep in mind and some mathematics. As I've mentioned, I've had some help and done some research to get the most important numbers right. Some are up for debate, like the intended compression ratio but more on that later.

To start with, what is compression ratio? Here people talk about a swept volume and an unswept volume. The swept volume is the volume of the cylinder (above the piston) from bottom dead center to top dead center, in other words the volume that the piston "sweeps" on its way up. The unswept volume is everything above the piston at top dead center. The compression ratio is the sum of the swept & unswept volumes divided by the unswept volume. 

The swept volume is the easy part: 
Volume of the swept cylinder (1/2 the bore squared x PI) x stroke. If you're using millimeters for the bore and stroke then divide the result by 1000 to convert from cubic millimeters to cubic centimeters

For my car, which is an unmodified 848cc, the bore is 62.94mm and the stroke 68.26mm. This means the swept volume is 212.463cm

The unswept volume is made up of the following:

1) The ring land volume which is the tiny area around the piston crown above the top compression ring up to the level of the crown
2) The dish in the piston
3) The cylinder volume from the height of the piston crown to the top of the block
4) The volume provided by the compressed gasket between the head and block
5) The volume in the combustion chamber in the head (with the plug in place)

So my job is to collect data on all these measurements, put them in a calculator and work out how I can go about getting the desired compression ratio with a head that did not come standard on an 848cc motor.

The values I have so far are:

1) Ring land volume - using someone else's figures  = 0.6 cc
2) Dish in the piston, using a figure measured by a friend of mine on a standard 848cc piston as follows (note the piston in the photo is not the actual piston. Just to show the example. The figure I'm using for dish = 1 cc



3) Cylinder volume from the crown to the top of the block = area x measured height (in other words 1/2 bore squared x PI x measured height). For this measurement the head obviously has to be off the block so one can take measurement. I haven't done this on my engine because I use my car as a daily driver. I've taken the measurement on another standard 848cc engine. I'm hoping this will be close enough. In fact if anyone thinks this is a mistake and I should rather take the measurement on the actual motor, I'll have to do that. For the time being, here are some measurement pics





This measurement was 0.017" which is 0.4318 mm. Using the formula above, the volume above the crown up to the top of the block is 1.354 cc

4) Gasket compressed volume, this is an easy one. The small bore performance head gasket from Minispares actually says what its compressed volume is when torqued down = 2.8cc 

So far, if we add up 1) to 4) we get 5.754 cc. This is everything unswept underneath the head. 

The next update will deal with 5) the combustion chamber volume and how the choice of head influences the calculation

Please point out errors when you see them and give advice where I'm going wrong.

Guys

That time of the year is coming closer again....

Place Zwarkops Raceway
Date 31 July 2016
Time as early as possible.

Get those minis up and running.

So after weeks or maybe months of trying to force me, Vinay finally got me to start a build thread. 

Will slowly add pics of as it started till currently. 

Started the build in May 2014 and slowly started the complete strip down of the mini. Did a big mistake of not labeling the stuff neatly and now I'm feeling the pinch.
Collected a set of 7.5" discs from Ben that i fully rebuilt and painted. sandblasted the subframes and put new suspension bits on, set of hi-los and decent rubber cone suspensions. Sourced a good set of 3 gauges GTS gauges from Scott that will be put in and complete interior will be done.

 Today i done most of the wiring and some wires need to be sorted out as they have been damaged in the years. Unfortunately the spray work isn't the best, but like they say you get what you pay for.

Motor wise i will be getting a GTS motor for full rebuild and possibly 1330cc with some nice new internals, future build will be a 1310cc with a SC12 supercharger that will either be blow through or suck through and still deciding if carb of fuel injection.

Rims i have quite the choice, I managed to get a set of 10x5 Cosmic rims that need to be refurbished and then a set of 10x6 Steel rims with wheel caps and lastly that will go on for now is a set of 10x5 Superlites rims.

Suspension i have a set of new monroe shocks and the rest is all standard. (for now  )

I gave her the name after a grape that becomes a very expensive Wine, Syarh and due to the colour of the car. 

The sunroof was also closed due to rain always leaking on my head














And the mini was back on wheels.