Hi Guys,

I'm based in the UK and new to the forum.  I'm just in the process of buying into a South African Mini GTS and thought that this may be the best place to learn more about the car and get some helpful advice.

My first question is in regards to leaded or unleaded fuel being used in SA.  The car I have was first registered 1/1/1978 and has been well looked after, however I don't have any records to show that it had its exhaust valves upgraded to run on unleaded, or not.  Was it common place for the work to be done on minis in SA?  Where the heads stamped in any way after being upgraded?

If anyone has a useful reference specs for the GTS it would be appreciated also.  Just the simple things like engine strobe timing, which needles for the twin inch and qtr su's. etc etc.  

Also, what valve sizes were used in the 12G940 heads on the GTS?  Was the cam any good or very basic?

All help would be much appreciated.

Many thanks for your help!!

Andrew

So i've tried to do my own things and cut up an hotwheel estate 
to make a pickup. Was'nt that difficult and looks quiet good :-)

   

Not so much a technical query, but if it helps someone....

So at the dyno day I had an issue with a non sealing needle & seat. Opened and cleaned it and tried again but results showed an overly rich setup.
The car ran like a pig. We tried to fiddle a little but no joy.

From the start I knew I had an inappropriate, badly modified needle. One of the advantages of attending stuff like this is that Dez of Dez’s Minis told me he had a BDL in stock, which is what I wanted to buy from England, but the whole small item/postoffice disfuntionality/exchange rate issues just meant it never happened. So I limped home and left it, meaning to get the needle, clean the carb properly, and start again.

After disassembling and cleaning thoroughly, new needle, new fuel filter, my high hopes were dashed. Terrible battle to start, rough and missing, just like before. I read Dez Hamill’s SU book again – multiple times, read the SU manual again – multiple times. Re-set the jet height, fiddled with the mixture settings – multiple times.
It would idle nicely, but nothing else.
Fiddled with the timing, re-set the jet height fiddled with the mixture settings – multiple times. Checked the compression. No joy.


My timing light wouldn’t work properly all the time, but since it’s as old as the car, and when I would press the button again it would work, this didn’t raise a flag at the time. I took out the plugs and connected them one by one to my classic bike. Clear sparks.
Tried the whole process again, and again. You have to understand it was 6-7 hours after starting the exercise. One of the plugs would always show sootyness, but not always the same one.

Eventually went to sleep and woke up on Sunday morning with the bright idea it must be the HT leads. Got a set (R120 school fees) & put them on – no joy, same problems. Checked the rotor and cap.
The blue Echlin rotor had cut a groove in two of the posts and was touching another in the Echlin cap. Filed down the rotor corners which I could see had been touching, but replaced the rotor and cap with the originals. Researched the gap issue - doesn't seem to be that important.
Still no joy after resetting timing, jet etc. etc.  again - multiple times.


Most of Sunday gone and running out of petrol, so I decided to pop up the road and get some.

Ran out about 200m from the gate.

Pushed it back, got a can, bought some petrol, and limped it back up the hilly driveway , into the garage and left it. I was to say the least GATVOL.

During the week I started doubting the Accuspark unit, but its electronic, so it either works or not? Thought about a sticky valve after thrashing it on the dyno, and that was the next weekend’s start point.


Saturday, a week later, on my wife’s insistence, I went and bought four new plugs (R95).

Hallelujah! – easy start, adjustment of the jet actually affects things, changing the timing affects things – everything works as it should.

FFS!!!


It now starts first turn, the needle is much better in mid range, noticeably more torque, and much more driveable. Top end still 147 true speed so the power is still similar, but at least it’s working.

Dealing with the wife, and the bruised ego, is now the only issue!

Just a quick one to confirm - am I right in saying that when converting an all drum mini to 7.5" S discs in front, because of the wider setup at the front you need to either use the rear drums with built in spacers (Minispares code GDB106) or alternatively use a 1" spacer, with longer studs, on the standard existing drums (Minispares code CW16)?

Hey hey!


I have a list of parts for sale.

The items in the FIRST LIST are ready to go.
The items in the SECOND LIST are almost ready (noting what needs to be done) and you are welcome to reserve these parts so long.
See attached for a few pics - let me know if you want more! 
I am based in Port Elizabeth.... see below lists for courier charges.


List 1 – ready set go….

 
Full set (rear and both front) Seats – black cloth - great condition with 1 tiny tear at the back of the one front seat: R2000
Full set Seats incl brackets - grey vinyl - a few small nicks, but repairable - Ive cleaned it with Clean Green but it needs a good scrub - I dont have vinyl cleaner and Im scared of damaging it - if anyone can suggest something I can use that wont damage it, Ill give it a bash!: R2000   
Bull nose Bonnet: R650
Drivers Door, no glass, no interior handles (comes with outer handle and locking mech, no key) : R 750
Clutch housing: R500 
Camshaft -  needs work: R250 (lightly pitted but useable)
Timing plate and cover – cover not the best condition:  R100
Sachs Timing chain: R250
Steering wheel – great condition, looks new: R400
Headlight surrounds:  R150 for the pair
Gearbox (Rod change – turns easily by hand):   R2900
Tailgate with lock mechanism       (no key) :    R500
Fuel tank (drained but cap not coming completely off, keys don’t unlock it. It will come off, I just dont want to break it in the process): R400
Conrods: R400 for all 4    (12g1507/8)
Rocker set with pushrods - fantastic condition:      R1250     
Rear window: R300
Int handles chrome (not the best condition, but all chrome still there – just “bumpy” to the touch):      R40 for the pair
Crank - very lightly pitted but will do the job. Must still take pics of this: R1500  (12g2827)
 
 
 
List 2 – parts you can reserve, but theyre not 100% ready yet.. (soon soon!).
 
Clutch housing (second one – not a repeat of list 1) – need to give it a cleanup           R500
Clutch cover  (needs a cleanup)                R250
Fuel tank   (want to rinse it out properly – already drained)              350
Engine block  - 1098 / 1275 (still want to clean it up - light surface rust)       R1000     
Cylinder head with springs and valves (has what looks like dried fuel inside, car was running before it was deserted. Will clean up before delivering/couriering) R1500


Theres still a LOT more to come so watch this space.

Courier charges:

Any part/s totalling <5kg, that can fit in the courier bag: R99 for to-your-door delivery via Aramex
Larger items: TBC once I have your delivery address and everything that you are wanting.
You are more than welcome to use your own couriers.
No collections from my home. If youre in PE I will happily delivery to you on a COD basis, preferably in a public place like Sunridge village (I may be a grease monkey at heart but I am a girl after all )


If you want more pics, please just ask. If you want parts that are not on the list, please ask :-)
PM me, or whatsapp 0795988297

                                       



 
 

Hi Guys,

I am looking for any old external door hinges that you might have lying around.

I have a WHOLE lot of lose ones but unbelievably none of them make up a complete set

Will buy whatever you have or swop if you need certain ones too.

Based in PTA

(OH)82 5840107

Thanks

Craig

Hi Mini fans,

My father in law is restoring an early (1965) mini station wagon.

The doors that came with the project are beyond repair though.

He is looking for a set of doors (Can be complete or not) to buy.

Anyone have some or know of some lying around somewhere?

Based in Pretoria but happy to fetch anywhere in the country if necessary.

Thanks.

(OH)82 5840107

Craig

Hi Guys quick one .

Has anyone ever widened 10 inch steelies before ?

I want to give my mk3 a different look and love the whole deep dish steelie euro look but I'm just not sure  

on how wide I need to go because I'm not sure if I'm going to find a tyre that fits ..

please can someone help ? 

Hi guys and girls!


I am based in PE - I have 2 x classics.....

1 x 1974 Clubbie 1098cc (stripped)
1 x "probably also 1974" bull nose 1098cc (partial, stripped)

I worked for Mini for 5 years, had a blast, and once the mini bug bit me, that was IT!!!!

Hit me up if you need any parts!

So a little while back we had a really cool run from GreenPoint Stadium to Hout Bay. Lots of attention for our minis on the run with the BMW MINI folks joining in as well. 






**(Please note that these pictures were taken by other guys on the run and first shared on facebook)