Glad the forum site is back up and running and love the new look!  I am the proud owner of a 1971 mk3 mini with the original 998cc engine.  Had big plans for the car but only managed modest upgrades thus far.  Still enjoying the original spec.  Upgrades done so far 1. Converted the head to take unleaded petrol; 2. Electronic egnition; 3. Front disc brakes 7.5 inch

What a lovely place.

The farm itself is over 100 years old, and is still a fully functional dairy farm with wonder restaurant as well as other attractions.

Our meeting point was just off the N1 to Pretoria, by the Caltex, only two Mini were there, myself and a nice little red 1100 clubman (Sorry man, your name slipped my mind).

We met up with the rest of the bunch who left from Pretoria, at the actual farm.

I will load some pictures of the Mini as soon as my phone allows the Emails to go through to photobucket   .

But MAN, i sure do love driving my classic Mini ! awesome awesome awesome

Suspension - Fitting Hi-Los and similar derivatives
 
Elsewhere on in Calver's Corner I have covered lowering the Mini by modifying the standard existing components, and the essential problems to look out for. However, most folk don't want the aggravation of messing about cutting cones and the possibility of repeating the process should the result not be what they want. The easiest solution is to fit an adjustable cone - to all intents and purposes an adjustable spring platform. This is the ubiquitous Hi-Lo. One other attribute the Hi-Lo has is to increase the progressive rising rate of any of the rubber springs. This was mistakenly advertised as increasing the spring rate by 25% - in reality this is nearer 20%, and doesn't actually increase the spring rate but is a similar effect. Whatever, it helps resist roll to help make the car run flatter through a corner - although it does have a very negative effect too. However, the pros are judged by many to out-weight the cons.
 
The Hi-Lo was developed many moons ago, the rights to manufacture originally being purchased by Keith Ripp of 'Ripspeed' fame, where they have remained since. The original design used a long hex key to wind the large threaded bolt into which the knuckle joints were fitted in and out of the cast aluminium cone and had a small hex grub screw in the cone body to 'locate' the adjuster bolt in place once ride height was set. Visually it was quite different from the later models as it was slightly 'lighter' and have four vertical ridges spaced 90 degrees apart (the locating screw was situated in one of these, around half way up it). This was remodelled after a few years, doing away with the locating grub screw - deemed unnecessary since there was no movement of the adjuster bolt once set even without the grub screw - and incorporated a drilled 'drain' hole to allow water collected on top of the cone to drain away instead of corroding the cone and adjuster bolt into uselessness. The advent of the rubber mounted front subframes using the massive tower retaining bolts eventually saw rise of the third incarnation of the Hi-Lo. To aid adjustment without recourse to removing the tower bolts, and indeed having to drill access holes in the rear valance for the long hex key to reach the adjuster in the rear Hi-Los, the new design sported hex-ended adjuster bolts and a locating nut. This now meant ride height could be relatively easily adjusted using a pair of spanners.
 
The original design was patented, so the Hi-Lo was the only adjustable spring platform of its type for the Mini for many, many years. Then the patent laws changed. When the original patent ran out, Ripspeed saw no need to renew it on this product. In hindsight, a foolish move as every Tom, Dick and Harry has had a go at producing their own versions. Some good, some appalling. Whatever the actual visual differences, they all incorporate the same adjustable spring platform (cone), using a long distance piece at the rear to connect the knuckle to the cone. Consequently they are all fitted in very much the same manner as the originals.
 
This whole business of raising and lowering the Mini is one of those much abused subjects where those with a little knowledge - i.e. they've fitted a set and dumped the car in the weeds without recourse to any other considerations.
 
The crux of the problem is the suggestion that fitting Hi-Los (or some such) will afford you the convenience of winching the ride height up when carrying a larger than normal load (say four full-sized humans) then dumping it to the floor for track days to 'maximise handling'. This simply isn't so for two very important reasons - and many smaller but still significant ones. Just considering the main two should lead you into the other hassles this exercise can create. For further information on savage lowering of the car - see the other articles on this subject in my 'Corner'.

First - raising and lowering the ride height can dramatically alter front suspension geometry including tracking. When setting up a car's suspension geometry, the very first parameter you set is the ride height simply because as the car moves up and down, the suspension moves through different sections of the arcs their very different operational lengths describe. Each suspension component describes a different arc on a different radius - the interaction of all dictates what attitude the wheels develop. So raising/lowering the car will change camber, caster and track on the front. Consequently this winching up and down should most definitely not be done without checking/re-setting all the front-end geometry. If you want to do this road/track day malarkey, set the geometry at 'road' use height, then lower the car to your 'track day' height and check what's happened to the front-end geometry. In particular the tracking. If changes need to be made, either set the car up before you go, or take some equipment with you to do it at the track. Mini Spares/Mania sells some very cheap and simple to use tools to facilitate this. The good news is raising and lowering the rear doesn't change the rear end geometry at all.
 
Secondly - dampers. Not all dampers are capable of dealing with radical changes in ride height. Most folk are aware of the various dampers available for lowered ride height cars, although there seems to be a general vagueness (even from the damper manufacturers) about when the lowered damper is needed since referring to a difference from 'standard' ride height generally means very little. And the fact the 'short' dampers are 3/4-inch shorter than their standard ride height ones doesn't help either. What you need to know is will the damper work OK on your car. Since the main details of whether they will or not is the distance between the top and bottom damper mounting points, how far apart/close together they get in operation and the open/closed distance between the mounting points on the damper, some critical measuring is needed. So why don't the manufacturers give you the specific information you need? Suffice to say - unless you take the necessary steps of measuring the differences you may well end up scrapping them. For details on many of the commonly used dampers see the relevant article elsewhere in my 'Corner'.
 
In the meantime - here's how to fit a set of Hi-Los (or other copied derivatives).
Top
Front end:
To enable this to be done, you will need the special tool manufactured for compressing the rubber springs. Without this you will not get the ally trumpets out since the rubber spring is applying considerable pre-load force on the cone and knuckle assembly. They are readily available from MSC/MM and are not expensive. Every long-term Mini owner should have one anyway! It is possible in certain areas to rent one if buying one is out of the question. Perhaps a local Mini owner or club would be willing to share theirs.
 
Slacken off the wheel nuts, jack the car up, and lower onto axle stands positioned underneath the front subframe. I usually site them directly under the inner bottom-arm pin. Make sure the car is secure and stable then remove the wheels.
Remove the bonnet (hood). On post 1976 (rubber mounted front subframe cars) remove the 1-5/16"AF-headed bulkhead to subframe tower bolt. I strongly advise doing one side at a time, although hopefully the car won't go anywhere if securely positioned on the axle stands!
Use the spring compressor as described in the literature supplied with it. If none is available - the Mini Spares-sourced type is a two-piece tool - a threaded rod with large cast T-handle screwed onto the top and a T-bar at the very end, and a long metal tube with a plate at one end. The metal tube is placed with the plate against the bulkhead. The 'pointy end' of the threaded rod placed down inside this, and screwed into the spring. The T-handle is then screwed down to compress the rubber spring. CAUTION; there are two types of threads used in the rubber springs. Pre 1976 had a fine, 1/2"UNF imperial thread and post 1976 ones had a coarser, 14mm metric thread. Don't wind one into the other - cross-threading the rubber spring will be a nightmare of epic proportions! Smear a blob of grease onto the thread on the rod, and take your time to carefully screw the rod into the spring. If you are getting a great deal of resistance - you may be using the wrong thread type. Once happy you've got the right thread match, wind the rod in at least nine or ten full turns to ensure complete thread engagement in the springs threaded section. Use the cast handle to compress the spring. This will take some doing as the force that spring is applying is in the thousands of pounds area. Compress it about 1/2".
Remove the bump-stop fixed to the subframe tower elbow to give maximum working room - two nuts on inner side of tower for early non-rubber mounted subframes, one nut for rubber mounted types.
Position the jack underneath the bottom swivel pin on the outer end of the bottom arm and jack the suspension up until the ally cone is just re-engaging the rubber spring. Now remove the rebound buffer under the top arm, fixed to the subframe by a Pozi-drive screw. You may need an impact driver since these can get corroded in. Doing this will maximise the 'droop' available on the top arm - again for maximum working room.
Undo the top and bottom damper fixings and remove the damper.
Lower the jack and allow the suspension to go to full droop.
Compress the spring just far enough so clearance is given to remove the cone. Fitting the Hi-Lo back in will be easier because it can be made shorter.
Getting the old nylon cup out of its socket can be trying - the easiest method I have found is to use a butane gas torch to melt the thing. Alternatively a very sharp craft knife (Stanley knife) can be used to cut it to pieces. Both are far easier than trying to pull it out with grips of some sort. Since Hi-Los (and some of the other derivatives) come with new knuckle cups, destroying them isn't a worry. I would strongly advise, however, fitting complete new knuckle assemblies since they are so cheap. Clean any corrosion out of the nylon cup socket in the top arm, and grease lightly to abate further corrosion.
With the lock-nut screwed down to the knuckle seat end, screw the adjuster as far in to the cone as it will go, then screw it out again counting and making note of the number of turns it takes to set the platform to the original cone height using the one removed as a gauge. Remember - it's the distance from the spring platform lip to the end where the knuckle fits that's important - so don't just sit the Hi-Lo down on a bench - the adjuster may hold it up, and the raised seat locating ridge may be different to the standard one. Now screw the adjuster all the way in again. 
Use copper anti-seize grease on the knuckle pin to adjuster bolt joint, plenty on the entire thread length of the adjuster bolt and around the spring seat to avoid corrosion seizure then re-assemble the whole lot in reverse order of removal, substituting the Hi-Lo adjustable platform for the standard aluminium cone. Unscrew the adjuster by the relevant amount of turns noted to return the adjustable platform to the 'as standard' position - this will give you a near-standard ride height to work from - then do the other side.
Refit the wheels, and lower the front onto the ground

Rear end:
Slacken the wheel nuts, jack the car up and set it down onto axle stands, ensuring the car is stable then remove the wheels.
Position the jack underneath the drake drum on one side, and take the weight off the radius arm.
You need to disconnect the top damper fixing. I always find this a great deal easier if the boot (trunk) lid is removed first. Saves having to try and work at full stretch and awkward angles. Particularly as the fuel tank needs swinging in to the boot space to afford access to the left hand damper fixing. A little forethought here will see a bare minimum amount of fuel in the tank whilst this operation is being carried out to avoid the risk of spillage. To remove the tank, release the holding straps and filler cap. Ease the tank inwards to pull the filler neck back through the large body grommet. Once the filler neck is clear - re-fit the filler cap, and swing it into the boot space far enough to allow access to the top damper fixing.
Lower the jack and allow the radius arm to hang at full droop/rest on the floor. Slacken the lower damper to radius arm fixing, compress the damper and swing it back towards the rear of the car to maximise access to the rear suspension. If the dampers are to be changed, remove the lower fixing then the damper.
No spring compressor is needed at the rear, as there is sufficient droop available to allow the cone and spring to be removed. The rear suspension is under less spring pressure so requires no pre-load to be used. However, if the assembly has been in situ for some time, the spring may be stuck to the cone by corrosion. This will mean some use of a hammer and possibly large chisel/pry bar to get them apart. Soaking the joint in WD40 pays dividends.
Once out, repeat the knuckle cup removal and socket attention as detailed in the front suspension operation.
The rear Hi-Lo uses a long rod to connect the knuckle to the adjuster - substituting the length of the long rear cone. Repeat the method outlined in the front section for setting the over-all 'standard' cone length, including anti-seize greasing.
Reassemble in reverse order of fitment 

If a change of dampers is decided on, and removal of the existing ones leaves the eye-bush inner metal sleeve stuck on the damper mounting pins (front and/or rear), use that butane torch to heat the sleeves up a bit and remove with Vise/Mole grips. Clean the pins up with abrasive tape and smear anti-seize grease all over them before fitting the new units.
 
Do not be at all surprised if the car still looks too high once you've set it back on the ground. You have disturbed the well-settled suspension components, and the slight increase in the spring platform seat will cause the spring to run in a slightly different 'position' - raising the ride height slightly. Drive the car around for about a week to settle it all down. This is why I described setting the Hi-Los to the standard-ish length initially. You don't want tyres whacking bodywork or suspension going bound before you've had time to thoroughly investigate what is going on as the car is lowered/raised.
 
When adjusting the ride height do not adjust one corner only. I start out by lowering the car as far as it will go without disengaging the cones from the springs (particularly at the rear) even amounts - count the number of turns - either side front and rear. Then start winding the adjusters to raise the car to the required height at each end. For full explanation on setting ride height see 'Suspension - basic set-up method'
 
For the record the front trumpet height as standard is 3.750" and the rear is 12.375" on the latest post 1979 cars and all vans/estates. The earlier ones were around 12.125". This is from the knuckle end to the spring platform face, both measured from where the spring butts up against it, NOT the over-all height.

This information was taken from Keith Calvers personal website and the original can be found here...
http://www.calverst.com/articles/SUS-Sus...Hi-Los.htm

Hi all

These are genuine unused imported from UK, ABS Motorsports Group 7 arches.

Cost me a whack load more to import than this, but i have no use for them now.

R800.

Suite someone running disk brakes and wide 7" rims.

Thanks

Sean.

Taken from the Retro Minis site - find more here CLICKY

MINI Crankshaft Identification    
 
This list should cover any forging numbers you can find on any Mini  A Series or A + crankshaft, from a 1959 thin tail 850cc to the 1275 MPi 2000, we have included various tuning crankshafts including the Turbo and of course the ultimate Mini Cooper S ones. We have not listed part numbers as it depends on the bearing types and can be confusing. Sometimes the same forging number can be produced using a different grade of steel, machined to different sizes and or heat and chemically treated using a different process, so would have a different part number and or application. As a guide from a longevity and performance point an EN16T steel  crankshaft is pretty good, but the 970, 1071 and pre 1969 1275cc Cooper S Crankshafts were EN40B steel which is in itself very strong but benefits further from the chemical heat process of Nitriding, which hardens the surface even more.

Contrary to popular belief all Mini A series and A+ crankshafts are forged steel, if they were cast iron or steel  they would break all too easily. 
Various tuning companies produce other forged or billet crankshafts for the Mini, mostly  for the 1275 engine blocks, from  1275cc to around 1500cc. They are generally for motorsport to help make up to a class limit, (eg, Hillclimb and Sprint regulations have a class break at 1400cc currently). Some are short stroke and some are longer than the standard 1275 of 81.3mm, these are covered in the capacity section, as a general rule, they  do not have forging numbers on them, and may only have the stroke length punched into the surface. 

[b]Forging                       CC     Notes[/b]
 
22A62 & 63               850    1959-62 oil fed primary gear, 1.375" thin tail 
22A298                      850    1962-3, 1.375" thin tail
12A670                      850    1963-84 with 1.5" dia. tail
                                                
AEG515                     850    Special Tuning Tufrided
        
12A375                      997    1961-2 Cooper oil fed  primary gear, 1.375” thin tail
12A298                      997    962-63 Cooper with 1.5” dia.tail
12A595                      998    Early EN16T 
12A1451                   998    Later EN16T pre A+
12A1451                    998     A+ spec
12G82                       1100     A series EN16T 
AEG330                    970    EN40B Nitrided,  non-cross drilled
AEG171                    1071    EN40B Nitrided,  non-cross drilled
AEG315 / 316           1275    1964-66 Cooper S, EN40B Nitrided, non-cross drilled
        
AEG479 / 480           1275    1966-69 Cooper S, EN40B  Nitrided, cross drilled
        
AEG623                    1275    1969-71 Cooper S, EN16T, Tuftrided
12G1287 / 88           1275    Non-S, EN16T with 1.625" dia. big ends
        
12G1505                  1275    1969-71 Cooper S with 1.625” big ends                                                                                 
12G1683                  1275cc    12G1505 forging, non-S, EN16T with 1.75" dia. big ends, Tuftrided
CAM6232*                1275cc    Rolled fillet radius bearing journals, A+ with 1.75" dia. big ends
  
[b]*Note: [/b]This crankshaft was used in all Mini 1275cc A+ engines including the Mini ERA Turbo and the MG Metro Turbo. It is now impossible to know with any degree of certainty but, it appears that early Turbos had just the standard spec, EN16T, non-heat treated type fitted. Later examples certainly appear to have been heat-treated, probably an up-to-date, emissions-friendly version of 'Tuftriding' (a recognised ICI registered process) - possibly a forerunner to Nitro-Carburising. These crankshafts have a distinctly charcoal-grey/black finish - mostly detectable on the webs, water pump/alternator pulley end and in the rolled fillet radii. The later being fairly 'deep' and very even. 

* AEG515 - 850cc - Special Tuning Competition Crankshaft, Tuftrided

* 8G2733 - 998cc - ?
* 12A595 - 998cc - Early EN16T spec
* 12A1451[R] - 998cc - Later, pre-A+ EN16T spec
* BHM1436 - 998cc - A+ spec, 1985 onwards (12A1451 forging)

* 12G2827 - 1071cc - South Africa spec, 1,75" big ends

* AEG1392 - 1275cc - Cross drilled, wide thrust gap, small journals

* 12G1817 - 1275cc - n/a (verm. Clubman 1275GT)
* 12G1505* - 1275cc - Non-S, EN16T with 1.75" dia. big ends
* 12G1683 - 1275cc - 12G1505 forging, non-S, EN16T with 1.75" dia. big ends, Tuftrided
* CAM6581** - 1275cc - Metro Turbo early (controversy if nitrided or not runing)
* CAM6232** - 1275cc - Rolled-fillet radius on bearing journals, A+ with 1.75" dia. big ends
 

I'm looking for a brake line that goes from the t piece on the bulkhead to the pressure switch on the front subframe. My line snapped yesterday when removing it. 

Basically from here: 




To here:

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if anyone had one of the diamond AA badges that would have been seen on 70s and 80s minis. I thought it'd be a nice touch on the front grille.

Cheers,

Vinay

Hi guys

We have placed an order and paid for another 100 wheels to be built !

Same specs as last time:
Size 6 x 13"
PCD is 4x4" (101.6mm)
Stud hole size is 10mm (better centralizing on the studs).

Only difference this time, we have asked for them to be painted in a lovely hyper silver.

These sold out quite quickly last time, so to book them, R1,000 deposit secures you a set NOW.

Final pricing is exchange rate dependent, but we are hoping to keep them under R3,500 per set.

Thanks

Standard sealed-beam headlamps are useless, we all know it. The Main beam filament is a respectable 60W, but the dipped is just 45. Combine that with a fuzzy lens pattern, and what light is produced is randomly scattered everywhere but forwards, where you want it. When a filament blows in a sealed beam lamp, you have to chuck away the entire unit and replace it with a new one. Auxiliary spot lamps are for main-beam use only. Driving around with extra fog lights makes the police or traffic cops take an unhealthy interest in you and you'll look a little nutty using them all of the time! The best move is to give your car a useful dipped beam. Halogen gas in modern lamps produces something like 75% more light per watt than the original tungsten torch bulbs (I'm not too sure what gas they use) and Xenon gas makes more again, so the upgrade to halogen makes real sense, both economically and from a performance point of view.

Parts

• Halogen head lights. Produced by several manufacturers including Ring (Autopal), Wipac, Lucas and Cibie (rare). These are readily available in complete kits through most mini suppliers, but I'd recommend tracking down a 90s RangeRover or LandRover Defender is a scrap yard, as I believe they use wipac as standard. If you choose this route, make sure to cut the sidelight connectors and a few inches of wire from the car, and the rubber boot, as you'll need these too.
  
  
• H4 Halogen/Xenon bulbs
  
  
• Crimp connectors
  

• Screw drivers, flat-blade and pozidrive
  
  
• Wire cutters and strippers
  
  
• Crimp tool
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Long-nosed pliers
  

1. Do as the HBOL says and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
   
   
2. Undo the single retaining screw on the underside of the trim ring, and remove the trim by gently pulling it from the bottom.
   
   
3. Undo the retaining screw from the bottom nearside of the lamp, rotate the lamp anticlockwise to free it from the beam adjuster and remove the little retaining spring (use the long-nosed pliers).
   
   
4. Disconnect the wiring from the bulb contacts, recover the retaining frame and screws, and put the old light unit out of the way. In the bin is out of the way enough!
   
   
5. Slide the sidelight connector off the H4 connector and cut the two wires running to it. Strip these wires back so there's about 1/4" of bare core showing and use bullet crimp connectors to attach the new sidelight bulb holder. You may feel the need to solder these wires but that's entirely up to you! Wrap the connections in tape to protect them.
   
   
6. If you wish to change the headlamp bowls, this is the time to do it. Drill out the old rivets and remove the bowl, insert the new one with the wiring hole towards the bottom and fix with new rivets.
   

1. Fit the retaining frame and a H4 bulb to the new lamp unit (they'll both only fit one way) and fit the protective rubber boot over the terminals of the bulb.
   
   
2. Push the sidelight into the lamp and attach the electrical connections. At this point, have an assistant turn on the side lights, dipped and main beam so you can check all is well.
   
   
3. Offer the lamp into the hole, refit the little spring (again, with the pliers) and position the lamp back onto the beam adjusters
   
   
4. Refit the retaining screw and trim ring.
   
   
5. Reconnect battery cable.
   
   
6. Wait for nightfall and go try them out!
   

Beginners guide to spannering on your mini

Now you may have only just got your mini or you may have had it for ages and just paid your way at the garage, but here I will attempt to give you a basic guide to starting to fix stuff your self.

What do I need?
Before you get started there are a few things you will need:

Tools
The first thing is some tools. You don't need anything fancy but good tools do a long way. To start with all you will need is some screwdrivers, Imperial spanners and an Imperial socket set. These can be got cheaply enough from a number suppliers but Machine Mart do some cheap Clarke sets which aren't that bad either. A grease gun is also pretty essential for old cars like the mini as well as the fabled 'BFH' or big effin hammer.

With these simple tools you can do pretty much all the basics. As you progress you will need more items such as feeler gauges and torque wrenches but these can be bought as needed.

Other stuff
Get a Haynes manual. Yes, believe it or not they are actually useful! The best one is the light blue one, if you have a later injection Mini you will need the manual that covers these cars (though they cover it all they are not as good generally as the light blue one so it may be wise to have both knocking about).

You don't need to pay much for these either. eBay will want about £5-10 to your door often and most are in mint condition.

Other items that may prove useful are the old BMC workshop manuals. Again you can get these on eBay for about a tenner or they do exist on PDF format so ask about and I am sure some one can send you a CD with them on for a pint. These are very useful as they are what the manufacturer gave to garages to fix the cars so do cover everything. The down side is they do expect you to know a certain amount.

Space and Storage
If you are thinking of planning a complete rebuild of a mini from shell level then space is vitally important. Minis contain a lot more parts than you think and having mini parts here there and everywhere does create a mess and not having the storage capacity can mean parts left outside to rust or parts in every room of the house. Fine if you're single but not so suitable if you're wanting to attract a partner to your place for dinner!

Having the space to actually work on your mini is also a major godsend. Having to work out on the road is not practical and rather dangerous too as there is the tendency for cars to use the roads. It is more convenient to have a mini space if your property allows.

Time
You know that ball joint you were going to replace 3 weeks ago but ran out of time to fix?? Let that be a lesson to you. Many people regard Minis as a simple, basic car with simple mechanicals.. In essence, they are.....that doesn't mean that they are not a complete pain in the bum to work on at times. Sometimes the simplest of tasks such as a ball joint or replacing a filter can lead to untold problems, just because it is a '5 minute job' do not assume that that is always the case!

Patience
With added time comes added patience. That ball joint has cost you more time than you wanted and you just want the mini back on the road dont you? Keep calm, have a cup of tea (apparently obligatory for mini owners), do what you have to do to calm down and keep at it. A lot of projects fail because the owners have lost patience with the car. We suggest you keep at it and reap the rewards at the end. They make all the hassle seem worth it.

Getting Started!
The best place to start is usually to give your mini a service. Most minis are neglected mechanics wise and you cannot check things too often. So open the Haynes manual you bought earlier (You did buy the Haynes manual didn't you?) and turn to the bit about servicing near the front.

Right now read it. And now again. In fact just keep reading it some more. Now you should understand it. This bit is designed to be reasonably simple, but if you do find your self struggling to understand bits go out to the mini, open the bonnet and look at what they are talking about, it usually helps you.

Once you understand the service items go ahead and do one! It might be a bit scary but everyone had to start some where. Though before you do start taking bits off make sure you have all you need, oil, filter etc as there is nothing worse than having a car in bits the realising you haven't got a bit you need!

A service will replace the some or all following depending on condition and if your car has them:
Oil and oil filter (ideally this should be done every 3000 miles, only use 20W50 oil as that's what your gear box was designed for)
Air Filter (do this once it looks dirty, but check it every time you change the oil)
Spark plugs
High Tension Leads (The leads to the spark plugs aka HT leads)

On pre 1996 Minis:
* Distributor cap (the 'pot' at the other end of the HT leads)
* Rotor arm (the small arm in side the distributor that turns and chooses which cylinder to get a spark)
* Contact points (A small switch inside the Distributor that switches the spark on and off. Some later cars had an electronic system replace these. These usually have a black box on the side or a electric box of tricks either in the Distributor or connected to it.)

Moving forward
Now you have had your first go at fixing something on your mini and not killed your self you should have gained some confidence. So next time you have a problem you might be more prepared to have a go. But how do you know if you can actually do the job? The answer is in your Haynes manual.

First you read the job you are contemplating a couple times. If you under stand it and feel confident, go for it! If you are a bit unsure or need some reassurance, have a quick search or ask in the technical forums. A quick search will often find a nice full thread (or 10) answering the question well but failing this just ask in the appropriate forum, we don't bite (often) and will try help if we can. But be aware there are some grumpy gits in there, so make sure you ask your question clearly and try use the right names for parts as it makes it easier for every one. Also starting threads "I couldn't be bothered to search so....." is generally a bad idea.

Don't be afraid of admitting a job is beyond you either. Not every one is able to strip a gear box or rebuild a radius arm, some stuff is better left to some one who knows what they are doing and has bought the expensive tools needed for some jobs.

Getting in the swing of things
By now you should be getting quite handy with the spanner and building up your tool kit nicely. With time you will be able to do more than you can't and will be saving a small fortune in garage bills