Hi all, if anyone looking for the Rover Cooper similar to the attached, i can assist having imported 4 to date. Pleasse check or call Kieron 0848155406 on WhatsApp www.InternationalCollectableCars.co.za [url=http://www.internationalcollectablecars.co.za/][/url]
I had a 1275E in school that I tried to rebuild but ran out of funds and ended up selling... I bought a mini today and don't have a clue as to model and so forth any help please: Serial Number : 091069 Model : 1146AA, Chassis No: 5015558U : Thanks Guys and Thank you for accepting me
I have been on the search for a mini for some months / years and loose track of what I have seen etc... BUT over the weekend became a mini owners and would like to scratch you guys for parts and advice over the next few months
Now sure yet on the year But I got myself a Mk1 850cc it has most of its chrome bits and 2 door cards, interior is not bad at all to start
1st question the engine needs to be rebuild and I was wondering if putting a 1275cc is a straight swop out and would anyone suggest this or not... Reason for the 1275 idea is they are far more available and thus parts and repairs will be easier to do as well. or is the original 850 engine viable for modern suburb traffic?
My boss has decided to add a Mini to his collection of Ford Model A and T cars. A pickup, specifically. This vehicle holds a fair amount of nostalgia behind it, as the first company car he ever owned was a Mini pickup. He'd wanted one of these vehicles for a while, but just couldn't find the right one. That was until I stumbled upon this one on Gumtree in November last year. Bought sight unseen and was told to go and fetch it - about a 1500km round trip.
The day it was fetched :
It's a 1967 model, thus has the Australian type doors. It's been fitted with a later 99H type 1000cc at some point. Generally a good vehicle, with no rust or body damage. It does, however, need some mechanical work, which I'll get into shortly.
The first day it was back, it had the original company stickers from the mid 90s put on, along with some new tyres :
And sat next to one of the newer company pickups :
Already had it on the hoist and found some prior repairs/maintenance that were rather 'interesting'. Having looked through the vehicle, pretty much the entire braking system has to be replaced. New parts have already been ordered and received. Will hopefully be getting stuck into this vehicle shortly.
Managed to get an earlier and original steering wheel to replace the sporty one that's in there currently. There is a crack under the centre badge, but overall, not bad. Considering how hard they are to find here in SA, I'm happy :
Also got some Classic Castrol oil for this car :
I'm now at the point of doing some work, so she's on the ramp ready for some love and attention :
Made a start on the repairs today. I'm starting with the rear suspension and brakes as this seems to be less intensive than dismantling the entire front end.
This vehicle has really had some questionable maintenance done in the past, especially on the braking system. The rubber hoses look to be the original items; if not, then they're really old replacements. Left rear has perished and started to leak in the last couple of weeks, while there is a mix of brake shoes and cylinders - real backyard mechanic work. This picture shows the use of front shoes on the rear, with a leaking cylinder, among other things :
Stripped out the suspension on both sides at the rear. The radius arms are at the engineers for new repair kits to be installed, while I make a start on cleaning and painting some of the remaining items :
And the crusty items that were removed :
Made a little bit of progress today. The rear back plates have been built up with all new parts. The only items not replaced were the hand brake levers - still in good condition. So nice being able to deal with new parts :
I've also refurbished the rear hubs with a lick of paint, some new studs and wheel nuts and new Timken taper roller bearings. The bearings that came out were still the ball-bearing type and had certainly seen better days, especially on the left side, which had absolutely no grease in it :
Does anyone have any thoughts/ recommendations on an electric fuel pump to use?
I've had my engine rebuilt to 1330 with a high torque cam, will be using an HIF44 carb - car will be for road and occasional track day use. The engine has yet to be fired up.
I was set on going with the Facet Fast Road Solid State pump on Minispares (4.5-5psi/ 18 gallons per hour) (part no ss502) but once I started googling it seems this might be too high pressure and i might be better off with the "standard" facet (2.5-3psi/ 12 gallons per hour)(part number SS501).
Has anyone had any success with any of the locally available elec fuel pumps that they would recommend?
Year 2000 Rover Cooper, that's the last year of manufacture of the Rover Mini Cooper! Factory airconditioning, drivers airbag, and electronic fuel injection. Rust free, (still factory paint on battery box!) Aftermarket all aluminium radiator, air intake, Recaro leather seats, extended gearshifter, 4 speed manual, performance catalytic exhaust, new Kenwood radio with USB, insurance approved system 4 alarm immobilizer with anti hijack, full central locking. Brand new 13 x7J Minilites with Yokohama A539s 175/50s less than 200kms done! Alloy spare wheel. Collectable iconic classic Cooper, watch her appreciate in value month by month offers on R200k mail me for full pictures internationalcollectablecars@lantic.net
A good few years ago my dad purchased a 'gts engine from someone, however the small amount of info that I could find hasn't been very helpful. Did the gts have a cross drilled crankshaft, as well as 3 compression rings and bigger inlet valves(35.6mm)? None of the above mentioned details are present in the engine we have expect for the blocks identification tag that says 12H-GTS. Also can anyone identify this camshaft? Camshaft is spline driven.